The waves were about shoulder to head-high and perfect. There were so many surfers out there, good ones, really tearing it up. I read the paper and lounged in the water on a floatie that a lady from New Zealand gave me because her trip was ending and she wasn't going to schlep it back with her. And yes, Mom, I used plenty of sunscreen (30 spf) and wore a big straw hat, so I didn't get burned.
Statue of surfing legend Duke Kahanamoku at Kuhio Beach in Waikiki. Duke (he and I are on a first-name basis, dontcha know) was one of the first big wave riders in the world, an Olympic swimmer, and the first person inducted into the Surfing Hall of Fame.
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